Day 147 Kenya : Enkutoto Village


What a noisy night!!!!  The hippos honked, moaned, hooted, wheezed and slapped the water throughout the night.  But it was amazing to lie awake in the tent listening to the wild life.  At one stage during the night a loud crack woke us up - we later heard from the Masai that an elephant had visited us. 

As the sky lightened, we sat on the bank of the river, watching the sun rise a_SG105728 and experiencing Africa waking up. 



On the opposite bank of the river the hippos returning to the water a_SG105723  a_SG105749 , a family of warthogs grazed a_SG105733, a troop of spotted hyenas returned to their den a_SG105737 , a giraffe strode across the plains a_SG105740, a lone male elephant briefly appeared on the horizon and inquisitive banded mongooses peeked at us from around the back of Sully a_SG105743.  And all of this from the comfort of our armchairs before 8am!!

As we were stoking up the fire and putting the kettle on, a tour land rover arrived at the hippo pool with customers in it from Kitchwe Lodge.  We waved hello but our friendly greeting was not returned.  About 20 minutes later another land rover arrived carrying in it an officious little man from Kitchwe.  Did we know were trespassing and on private land?  No!!!  We had been told by the receptionist at Kitchwe to go to the village and get permission (and pay!) to camp - which we had done.  He denied any knowledge of any chief of any Masai village and told us to vacate after breakfast.  After a heated discussion (even Trevor got mad!), we decided to move on but complain to the chief, Olorokoi (John) on leaving.  Which we did.  Turns out though that immediately after talking to us, the officious little man had gone straight to the village (the one he denied knowing) to talk to the chief, John (who did exist) and unbeknownst to us, between them had sorted it all out.  Of course, this has all got to do with money!!!! This is Africa....  By the time we got there to complain, John was prepared to offer us a discount to stay.  So for a 2nd night we paid only KSH2000 per couple although we asked for the Masai warriors to pass on security for the night.  We paid them half then and promised them the other half the following day when we left ONLY if we had no issues with trespassing etc.  Needless to say, we didn't have any further problems.

The rest of the day passed uneventfully as we watched the hippos bathing in the warmth of the African sun a_SG105756.  Trevor and I took a walk back along the river to where locals were washing their clothes.  We figured if they were there, we'd probably also be able to with too much fear of bilharzia, crocodiles and hippos!!  We collected some water for a hot shower later, had a swim and made our way back to the camp.

1 hot shower later, we were refreshed and ready to face the world again.  But as we finished up, the clouds grew dark and pendulous, the wind started to blow, thunder rumbled and lightning sparked across the sky, as the regular afternoon storm approached.  Watching it flash across the Masai plains was incredible but an hour and a half later, the clouds began to break up behind us and the bright afternoon sun forced its way through a_SG105781 creating a magnificent rainbow on the opposite bank of the river.

Night fell and the chorus of hippo calls rang out across the river.  Who wouldn't love it?